Theft is the leading cause of bike abandonment for commuting. Yet a good lock is not about absolute cost but about fit with bike value and zone risk. Here's how to choose without overpaying or underprotecting.
Lock types, from safest to weakest
| Type | Resistance | Weight / size | For |
|---|---|---|---|
| U (steel hoop) | High | Heavy, rigid | High-risk city, valuable bike |
| High-security chain | High | Very heavy | Long parking, home |
| Folding | Good | Compact, practical | Good city compromise |
| Cable | Low | Light | Secondary only (2nd point) |
The cable alone protects nothing: it cuts in seconds. It only serves to secure a wheel as a supplement.
Certification levels
Trust independent certifications rather than marketing: Sold Secure (Bronze/Silver/Gold/Diamond), ART (1 to 4 stars, reference in the Netherlands), or in France the SRA/2 wheel level. A Gold/ART 2+ lock resists serious attack; a Diamond/ART 3-4 targets high-value bikes and demanding insurance.
Budget based on bike value
Simple rule: dedicate 5 to 10% of bike value to the lock. A 3,000 € e-bike deserves a U or high-end chain; a 300 € bike gets by with a decent folding lock. Bike insurance often mandates a minimum certified level — check before buying.




