The chain: the hardest-working part on your bike
The drive chain absorbs massive forces with every acceleration and downshift. Poorly maintained, it wears prematurely, damages the sprockets, and eventually breaks — sometimes while riding.
Regular maintenance is simple, quick, and extends the life of the entire kit.
Lubrication: every 500 km
The basic rule: lubricate your chain every 500 km, or after every ride in the rain. Water washes away lubricant and accelerates corrosion.
What to use:
- A motorcycle-specific chain spray (Motul, Ipone, Bel-Ray...)
- Apply to the inner face of the links, with the rear wheel spinning (side stand, push the bike)
- Let it soak in for 10-15 minutes before riding
What NOT to use:
- Not WD-40 — it's a penetrant, not a lubricant. It strips the O-rings from the chain and accelerates wear
- No thick bearing grease — it attracts dust and forms an abrasive paste
Before lubing, clean the chain with a specific chain cleaner and a soft brush. Never use a pressure washer — the pressure destroys the O-rings.
Tension: 25-35 mm of slack
Tension is measured on the side stand, at the midpoint between the gearbox output sprocket and the rear sprocket. Push the chain up, then down. The difference (slack) should be 25-35 mm on most models.
To adjust:
- Loosen the rear wheel axle
- Use the chain adjusters (adjustment bolts on the swingarm plates)
- Check alignment using the engraved marks — both sides must be identical
- Re-torque the rear axle (100-150 Nm depending on model)
- Re-check tension after tightening
Warning: a chain that's too tight prematurely wears the gearbox output bearings and sprocket. A chain that's too loose can jump off or hit the swingarm.




