Rim brakes: complete adjustment and pad replacement

Rim brakes are far from dead

Even though disc brakes dominate the high-end market, rim brakes remain the logical choice on thousands of bikes: city bikes, fixies, vintage bikes, aluminium-frame road bikes, and of course entry-level bikes. They're lightweight, simple to maintain, and perfectly effective when properly adjusted.

The three types of rim brakes

V-brakes (linear-pull): the most common on 2000s-era mountain bikes and trekking bikes. Two arms mounted on frame-brazed pivots, connected by a transverse cable. Excellent braking power. Requires specific levers (linear pull — not compatible with caliper levers).

Caliper brakes: the road standard. Single center-bolt mounting. Two variants — single-pivot (entry-level) and dual-pivot (Shimano 105 and above). Dual-pivot offers much better modulation. Compatible with standard road levers.

Cantilever: historically used on cyclocross bikes and tandems. Two independent arms on brazed pivots, connected by a triangular transverse cable. Good mud clearance, but trickier to adjust than V-brakes.

Adjusting pad alignment

This is THE adjustment that makes all the difference between spongy and precise braking.

• Height: the pad must contact the rim across its entire surface. Never on the tire (it would destroy it), never below the rim (loss of power and uneven wear)
• Toe-in: the front of the pad should touch the rim first, with approximately 1 mm gap at the rear. This eliminates vibration and brake squeal. Use a business card slipped behind the pad's trailing edge during tightening
• Centering: both pads should be equidistant from the rim (1.5 to 2 mm on each side). On V-brakes, use the spring tension screw on each arm. On dual-pivot calipers, loosen the center bolt and re-center the caliper

Tip: tighten pads to 5-7 Nm on V-brakes. Too tight and you won't be able to adjust, too loose and the pad will shift under braking.

Cable tension

A properly tensioned cable means responsive braking. A loose cable means delayed braking and excessive lever travel.

• New cable: cables stretch during the first kilometers. After 50 km, re-tension by pulling the housing at each cable stop, then readjust the barrel adjuster
• Barrel adjuster: this is your fine-tuning dial. Unscrew it (counterclockwise) to tighten the cable, screw it in to release. One or two turns is usually enough
• Lever travel: you should feel the brake bite within the first third of lever travel. If the lever hits the handlebar, either the cable is too loose or the pads are worn

Replacing brake pads

Pads are consumables — no shame in changing them often. A worn pad means dangerously reduced braking.

Dry vs wet compound: "wet compound" pads (usually black and softer) brake better in rain but wear faster in dry conditions. "Dry compound" pads (usually grey, harder) last longer but lose effectiveness on wet roads. If you ride in all weather, go for an all-round compound (Kool Stop Salmon, for example).

Installation: 1. Note the mounting direction (directional arrow on the pad) 2. Loosen the fixing bolt (5 mm Allen key) 3. Remove the old pad, noting the order of spacing washers (concave, convex, flat) 4. Install the new one in the same order 5. Adjust alignment and toe-in before tightening

When rim brakes are still the right choice

Don't let anyone convince you that disc is always superior. Rim brakes remain relevant if:

• You ride mainly in the city or on dry roads
• Your frame and fork don't have disc mounts
• You want a lighter bike (no rotor, no hydraulic caliper)
• You prefer simplicity of maintenance (a multi-tool is all you need)
• You have a vintage or classic bike you want to keep original

Ask your question on L'Atelier to get the exact torque spec or compatible pad reference for your brake model.