Two types of hubs, two approaches
There are two main families of hubs: cup-and-cone and sealed bearings (cartridge bearings). The difference is fundamental for maintenance.
Cup-and-cone (Shimano): loose balls roll between a cup (pressed into the hub shell) and a cone (threaded onto the axle). Bearing play is adjusted manually via a locknut. This is the traditional Shimano system, still used across the entire Shimano range including high-end (Dura-Ace, XTR).
Sealed bearings: standard industrial bearing cartridges (6001, 6802, 6803, 6902...) are pressed into the hub shell. No adjustment possible — when they wear out, you replace them. This is the system used by DT Swiss, Hope, Chris King, Industry Nine, etc.
When to service?
- Cup-and-cone: yearly or every 5,000 km, or as soon as you feel lateral play (the wheel wobbles when you shake it side to side)
- Sealed bearings: every 1-2 years or 10,000 km, or when rotation becomes rough (you feel notchiness when spinning the axle by hand)
- Freehub body: every 2 years or 15,000 km. Pawls and springs get gummed up
Cup-and-cone adjustment — step by step
Tools
- 2 cone wrenches (13 mm, 15 mm, or 17 mm depending on the hub — most Shimano use 15/17 mm)
- Thick grease (Shimano Premium Grease or Park Tool PolyLube)
- Clean rag
Procedure
- Remove the wheel and take out the quick release or thru-axle
- Non-drive side (left on a rear hub): hold the cone with a cone wrench, loosen the locknut with the other wrench
- Remove the cone + locknut + washer from this side. Note the order!
- Remove the axle from the opposite side. Balls will fall out — have a container ready
- Clean everything: balls, cups, cones, axle. Inspect the cups: if you see pitting (small impact marks), the hub is at end of life
- Count the balls: note the number per side (usually 9 balls per side on rear, 10 on front). Replace with new ones (they cost almost nothing, about 2 EUR for 50)
- Re-grease generously the cups, replace the balls (the grease holds them in place)
- Reassemble the axle and the cone on the non-drive side
The fine adjustment
This is the critical part. The cone must be tightened just enough so there is no lateral play, but without friction.
- Tighten the cone by hand until it contacts the balls
- Back off about 1/16 of a turn
- Hold the cone with the cone wrench, tighten the locknut against it
- Check: spin the axle — it should spin freely. Shake laterally — no play should be perceptible
- If play persists, tighten the cone by 1/32 of a turn and recheck
Tip: on a rear hub, set a tiny deliberate play (barely perceptible). When the wheel is clamped in the frame, the axle will flex slightly and this play will disappear.




