Tubeless setup: the complete guide

Why go tubeless?

Tubeless setup (no inner tube) offers three major advantages:

1. Puncture resistance: sealant instantly plugs holes up to 3-6 mm (depending on the sealant). Thorns, glass shards, and small nails are no longer a problem
2. Comfort and grip: you can ride at lower pressures without pinch flat risk (snake-bites don't exist in tubeless). Less pressure = more contact patch = better grip
3. Weight savings: a road inner tube weighs 80-120 g. Sealant weighs 30-60 g depending on volume. Net savings in rotational weight

Recommended tubeless pressures

Prerequisites: compatible rim and tire

Tubeless requires specific components:

• Tubeless-ready rim (TLR or UST): sealed rim bed or compatible with tubeless tape. Look for "Tubeless Ready", "TLR", "UST" or "hookless" markings on your rim
• Tubeless-ready tire: marked "TLR", "Tubeless Ready" or "TLE" (Tubeless Easy). Standard tires won't hold on the rim without a tube
• Tubeless rim tape: specific tape (Stan's NoTubes, DT Swiss, Gorilla Tape) or integrated rim strip. The tape width must cover the full internal width of the rim, including the valve hole
• Tubeless valves: Presta valves without removable core (or with removable core to facilitate sealant injection). Length depends on your rim depth (32 mm standard, 44-60 mm for deep-section rims)
• Sealant: Stan's NoTubes, Orange Seal, Muc-Off, Continental RevoSealant. Quantity: 30-40 ml for road, 60-90 ml for MTB, 90-120 ml for fat bikes

Step-by-step setup

1. Prepare the rim

1. Remove old rim tape and clean the rim channel with isopropyl alcohol
2. Apply tubeless tape starting opposite the valve hole. Make 1.5 full wraps (overlap ensures seal). Press firmly with a plastic lever to eliminate air bubbles
3. Puncture the tape at the valve hole with a pointed screwdriver or awl

2. Install the valve

1. Insert the tubeless valve from inside the rim
2. Hand-tighten the locknut, then snug it firmly (without crushing the seal). A quarter turn past contact is enough
3. Check that the rubber gasket is flat against the rim bed

3. Mount the tire

1. Mount one bead of the tire onto the rim (the bead should drop into the center channel)
2. Mount the second bead starting opposite the valve. Work from both sides toward the valve
3. Don't add sealant yet — seat the bead dry first

4. Seat the tire (bead seating)

This is the critical step. The tire bead must snap onto the rim hook (you'll hear a characteristic "pop").

Emergency tip: if the tire won't seat with a pump, use a strap (ratchet strap type) around the tire across the tread. Tighten to force the beads against the rim, then inflate.

5. Add sealant

1. Partially deflate the tire
2. Remove the valve core
3. Inject sealant with a graduated syringe through the valve (the cleanest method)
4. Alternative: unseat one bead, pour in sealant, reseat
5. Replace the core, inflate to desired pressure
6. Shake and spin the wheel in all directions to distribute sealant across the entire inner surface

Maintenance: don't forget!

Sealant dries out. This is the main source of tubeless problems.

• Every 3-6 months: open the valve (remove core), shake the wheel and listen. If you don't hear liquid sloshing, you need to top up
• Top-up quantity: 20-30 ml (half the initial dose)
• Annual cleaning: once a year, remove the tire, clean out dried latex balls ("Stan's boogers"), clean the inside of the tire and rim, add fresh sealant

Trailside troubleshooting

• Small puncture (< 3 mm): rotate the wheel to bring the hole to the bottom, sealant does its job in seconds. Re-inflate if needed
• Large puncture (> 6 mm): sealant isn't enough. Use a tubeless plug (repair kit like Dynaplug or Sahmurai Sword). Insert the plug into the hole, trim the excess, re-inflate
• Bead burp: the tire lost contact with the rim after a hard impact. Re-inflate quickly with a CO2 cartridge. If it won't hold, install a spare inner tube

Want to check if your rim and tire are tubeless compatible? L'Atelier can identify your components and confirm compatibility.